Last fall we had the pleasure of visiting Indonesia with my sister and decided to spend the last part of our trip in Lombok and the Gili Islands. Tragically, Indonesia was struck by a serious of earthquakes and subsequent tsunami just prior to our arrival, leading us to cancel our reservation in the Gili’s due to damage to our hotel and travel advisories. However, we kept our reservation at Jeeva Klui on Lombok, and looking back are so grateful we did as we had an amazing stay at what is surely one of the loveliest hotels in Lombok. Apparently other people agree because Jeeva Klui has been awarded as one of the top 25 hotels in Indonesia almost every year since 2012.Read More
“How do you support yourselves from the road?” “What kind of jobs do you have that allow you to work from your van?” I can’t tell you how many times we’ve been asked those question, so I decided to write a post not only about what we do, but about a variety of jobs we’ve come across over the years that you can do from the road. Some of them are pretty obvious, others not so much.Read More
When we built out our Sprinter van a few years ago, it was really helpful to see what other people used in their van builds as a starting point. Since finishing our van we’ve gotten a lot of questions about what we used in our van so decided to share a long overdue item list along with our thoughts on some of the products (don’t worry, we’re not sponsored). While this is far from an exhaustive list, it covers all the main components.Read More
Start off your first day in Banff National Park (I will simply refer to it as Banff from here on, not to be confused with the town of Banff) with a visit to one of its most iconic attractions: Lake Louise. Visit early in the morning (like really early) to beat the crowds and get a parking spot. The parking lot fills up quickly and we’ve seen parking attendants turning people away as early as 10:00 AM. Of course, if you’re visiting during the low season there’s no reason to worry about parking or crowds. When we visited in May there were only a handful of people wherever we stopped. A popular activity at Lake Louise is renting an iconic red canoe from the boat house to paddle around the lake. I’ve always wanted to do it, so on our third visit I decided to splurge and rent one so I walked over to the boat house to look at pricing and was shocked to see that they were charging $105 for 15 minutes! I expected it to be pricey because it’s such a touristy thing, but that’s outrageous. Needless to say, we did not rent a canoe (but no judgement to those of you who have or are planning to). However, people are allowed to use their own canoes/kayaks in any of the rivers or lakes in the park, so we’re planning to take our kayak on our next visit.
Lake Agnes Tea House
Since you’re already at Lake Louise, hike to the Lake Agnes Tea House for a wonderfully unique experience and splendid view. The Lake Agnes Tea House was originally built in 1901 by Canadian Pacific Railway workers as a refuge for hikers and began to serve tea in 1905. The tea house was rebuilt in the 1980s, but the windows, tables, and chairs are the originals. The trail is well marked and starts along the shore of Lake Louise just past the chateau. The hike is 4.5 miles (7km) round trip with 1,300ft (400m) elevation gain. Once again, this is something you’ll want to do early in the day. We started hiking at 7:00am and arrived at the tea house just after 8:00am to find a long line out the door waiting for seating. We waited for around half an hour before landing a lovely table on the porch. We ordered several kinds of tea and scones with jam, all of which were absolutely delicious. The prices are a bit steep, but that’s to be expected when a lot of the supplies are brought in via mule and helicopter.
Take a rest and lunch break along the shores of Lake Louise and then drive 30 minutes to Johnston Canyon for another short hike. It’s just 1.3 miles (2.2 km) to the lower falls and the trail is pretty flat making it a good hike for people of all ability levels and those with small children. We even saw several people pushing babies in strollers. It can get pretty crowded as Johnston Canyon is one of the most popular day hikes in Banff, but if you only have a limited amount of time you can’t see everything early in the morning when the crowds are at their lowest. Going late afternoon or early evening is your next best bet. We went at 4:00 pm during a summer visit and were able to get parking at the trailhead (people end up having to park along the side of the road, sometimes quite a ways from the trailhead, when it’s at it’s busiest). While a few areas got pretty congested, most of the hike wasn’t too bad as you can see from the photos below.
Finish off your day with a visit to Moraine Lake. While both Moraine Lake and Lake Louise are glacial fed with incredible blue water, I personally find Moraine Lake to be even more beautiful than Lake Louise. It’s a stunning end of the day location as the setting sun casts dramatic lighting on the mountains along the lake. Hike the very short trail off the parking lot to the top of the hill at the end of the lake for a spectacular view. Don’t follow the many people climbing up the rock jumble to reach the top of the hill as most of them don’t realize there’s a trail to the top. End your visit with a lovely stroll on the trail that runs along the edge of the lake.
Spend the night at one of the numerous campgrounds in Banff National Park. During our first visit we stayed at the Two Jack lakeside campground with a site right by the water. It was a really beautiful spot with heaps of firewood to which we had unlimited access for an extra $8.80 (seems to be standard throughout the campgrounds in Banff, Yoho, and Jasper). During our third visit we stayed at the Rampart Creek and Mosquito Creek campgrounds and really liked the fact that they were both located along the Icefields Parkway. While both were lovely, our favorite, despite the name, was Mosquito Creek as their creekside campsites are exceptionally lovely.
Drive the Icefields Parkway. It’s one of the most scenic drives in the world according to Condé Nast Traveller and we have to agree. Linking Banff and Jasper, it boasts 144 miles (232km) of thrilling views from soaring peaks and lush valleys full of wildlife to rivers, waterfalls, lakes, and glaciers. There is plenty on the Icefields Parkway to keep you busy for several days, but we’ve driven the whole thing roundtrip in a single day (a long day mind you, starting early in the morning and getting back close to dark) several times including stops to take in the sites, so it’s definitely doable. All the sights listed below are located along the Icefields Parkway in the order you’ll arrive at them driving from Lake Louise to the town of Jasper.
Fed by the Bow Glacier, Bow Lake is definitely worth a stop as it boasts a beautiful glacial blue hue and has some great gravel beaches where people can swim during the summer, though the water is far from warm! When we visited during the spring we were lucky enough to see two grizzly bears grazing in a meadow by the lake. Up until that point I had no idea bears ate grass. Bow Lake is also the starting point for the trail to Bow Glacier Falls. It’s a fairly easy 5.6 mile (9km) roundtrip hike with just 508 feet (155m) of elevation gain. If you start your Icefields Parkway drive early in the morning, you can reach Bow Lake and hike to Bow Glacier Falls before the trail gets busy. I hiked it with my parents and we arrived at 7:00 am and took approximately 1.5 hours to reach the falls. From a distance, it didn’t look like much but when we got to the base of the falls, it was actually pretty spectacular and there was only two other people there who left shortly after we arrived. The best part is that you can climb up the rock slide along the side of the falls to get closer and have a great view back into the valley. I’m usually pretty against climbing on rocks around waterfalls because they tend to be wet and slippery, but we found these rocks to be mostly dry and very rough and grippy without loose scree. That said, I wouldn’t let my kids scamper around on it.
Yet another incredibly blue glacial fed lake with a unique shape. It’s only a 10 minute hike from the parking lot to the viewpoint above the lake so can get pretty crowded due to ease of access. The photos below are from our spring visit so fortunately there was hardly any one there.
This lovely multi-step waterfall is right on the side of the road and worth a quick stop. There’s a parking you can stop at just before or after the falls depending on which direction you’re traveling. We’ve been lucky enough to see mountain sheep near these falls on two different occasions.
Stretching 15.5 miles (25km) across the Continental Divide, the Columbia Icefields are the largest icefields in the Rocky Mountains. You are now in Jasper National Park. Turn off the Icefields Parkway onto the short road that leads to the toe of Athabasca Glacier, which can be reached via a short walk from the parking lot. You can explore the area more by camping just across the road at the Columbia Icefields campground.
The upper Athabasca River flows into this picturesque waterfall made more interesting by the narrow gorge it’s carved through the soft limestone below the falls. Access is easy from a large parking lot just off the Icefields Parkway and the falls and gorge can be admired from various viewing platforms and the bridge that spans the gorge.
Valley of the Five Lakes
Wrap up your day with a visit to Valley of the Five Lakes located just five miles from the town of Jasper. Hike the fairly easy 2.8 mile (4.5km) loop to see the five stunning lakes for which the area is named. What these lakes lack in size, they make up for in beauty with amazing shades of green and blue. You can even rest for a bit in the Adirondack chairs set up under a tree at the end of one of the lakes.
Although you can now turn around and drive all the way back to a campground in or around Banff (it’s a three hour drive from the town of Jasper to Lake Louise), we’d recommend camping in Jasper or driving back to the Columbia Icefields campground which is the half way point. We’ve done both and personally prefer staying at the Columbia Icefields because of the magnificent view. We stayed at the Columbia Icefields campground (nicest pit toilet I’ve ever used) which is tents only, but it’s less than a mile drive to Wilcox Creek campground which can accommodate RVs. If you’re just tent camping, we think the Columbia Icefields campground is more attractive with better views.
A Few Tips
If you’re visiting during peak season, the best time to visit any attraction is early morning. Parking lot space is pretty limit for the amount of visitors so timing is crucial for the most popular sites. As I mentioned earlier, we’ve seen parking attendants turning people away at Lake Louise as early as 10:00 am and have also seen cars backed up halfway down the road to Moraine Lake waiting for a parking spot.
Be prepared for various weather conditions. When we visited in the spring, the weather was all over the place. Warm and sunny in one valley, raining in the next, then snowing as we gained elevation. Even in the summer, it can get pretty chilly up around the Columbia Icefields so plan accordingly.
It takes a minimum of 3 hours to drive from Lake Louise to the town of Jasper, which is basically your starting and ending points for the Icefields Parkway.
The only place to get fuel along the Icefields Parkway is at the Saskatchewan River Crossing. Both gasoline and diesel are available.
A Review Of Sal Secret Spot, Uluwatu
If you’re anything like me, when you visit a place as iconic as Bali, you want to stay in a dreamy boutique versus some big hotel in a chain. A small boutique hotel may not have as many amenities as other options, but in my opinion, it’s all about the ambience. When we decided to visit Bali last November, we knew we didn’t want to stay in the thick of the tourist scene and ended up deciding to head south to a more laid back coastal area called Uluwatu. Known for its world class surfing and cliffside views, Uluwatu is also home to some fabulously unique boutique hotels, most of which come with a prohibitive price tag. I’d just about given up on finding something affordable with the vibe I was looking for when I stumbled across Sal Secret Spot nestled just above Bingin Beach.
$10-50 $$50-100 $$$100+
How To Get There
Sal Secret Spot is an easy 30 minute drive south from Ngurah Rai International Airport in Denpasar. I didn’t see anything about transport on Sal Secret Spot’s website so I emailed them and was told that they could arrange airport pickup for approximately $20 USD. After doing some research we came to the conclusion that $18-20 USD was the going rate for transport from Denpasar to Uluwatu and ended up just arranging our own transport in advance with a driver that friends of my sister had used multiple times during their travels to Bali. Other options include public transport (we arrived too late in the evening for public transit) which obviously would be cheaper, catching a taxi from the airport, or getting Sal Secret Spot to set things up. While you could rent a car, things could get tricky as Sal Secret Spot doesn’t really have a parking area and the streets around it are very narrow so street parking isn’t an option.
While Sal Secret Place isn’t exactly beach front, it’s only a five minute walk to a flight of stairs down to Bingin Beach and they do have some sea view rooms and apartments. The bummer with the sea view rooms is that they aren’t connected to the main hotel (they are a 15 minute walk away per the hotel) so we opted for a regular room, which was of course also better priced.
WiFi (including all the rooms)
Surf board rentals
A Few of Our Favorite Things
We loved the overall vibe of the place from the white washed walls and carved wooden doors to the outdoor reading nook and cushions on the floor around the tables in the restaurant. I’m a huge fan of outdoor bathrooms, so loved the fact that our room had an outdoor shower. Although the breakfast menu was limited, we didn’t care since the fruit pancakes (almost more of a crepe like consistency with the fruit baked in) were do delicious we just ate them every day. The pool had a lot of comfy loungers and plenty of shade and all the staff were lovely. Last but not least, with only 14 rooms it was never crowded around the pool, at breakfast etc.
Things To Know
Children are not allowed in the deluxe sea view rooms and children under 5 are not allowed in the apartments (for safety reasons)
$20 per person per night plus taxes (21%) for extra guests (breakfast is included in that price)
All the deluxe sea view rooms and apartments are a 15 minute walk from the main property and include traversing a steep flight of stairs, so not a good option for people with a lot of luggage or poor mobility
Phone: +62 (0) 8123 8942 686
If you’ve converted a van or purchased a converted van, you’re probably aware of how frustrating it can be trying to get it insured as a camper, either because you’ve heard other people talking about it or you’ve tried yourself and heard lots of no’s or received confusing information from insurance companies. After we asked Progressive about switching our Sprinter from being insured as a cargo van to a camper van and were promptly dropped, State Farm saved the day and we learned some useful information about how to get your DIY van properly insured.Read More